It’s no secret that most people come to Sri Lanka for the beaches. With palm trees swaying over turquoise water and surf breaks that rival the best in the world, it’s hard not to. But if you’re after something more than just lazy days by the sea, Kandy, the island’s cultural capital, is a whole different kind of magic.
Sri Lanka might be small, but don’t let that put you off. Home to around 23 million people, it’s roughly the size of Ireland yet offers beaches, safaris, whale watching, tea plantations, and cities brimming with history. Unlike other parts of Asia, it still feels a little under the radar, which makes now a brilliant time to go, before the word properly gets out.
Getting to Kandy
Tucked away in the central highlands, Kandy is about 3.5–4 hours from Colombo, Sri Lanka’s capital and main entry point. You can drive or hop on a bus, but if you’ve got the time, the scenic train journey is absolutely worth it. Especially popular if you're coming from the southern coast or Ella, this train journey is often ranked among the most beautiful in the world. You’ll pass by tea plantations, waterfalls, and emerald-green valleys. Just be sure to book tickets in advance as trains fill up quickly during peak season.
Things to Do in Kandy
Tucked into the hills and surrounded by jungle and mountains, Kandy has a very different feel to the coast. The city is a mix of history, spirituality, and natural beauty. Sitting at a higher elevation, it’s cooler too, so it’s a good idea to bring a light layer or two. Whether you want to immersive yourself in the culture of the city, or stroll through the markets and experience life like a local, the options are there.
Temple of the Tooth
One of the most sacred sites in Sri Lanka, this UNESCO-listed temple is believed to house a tooth relic of the Buddha, making it a popular pilgrimage site. If you can, go during a puja ceremony (they’re held three times daily). A combination of the chanting, drumming, and incense, it’s a full-on sensory experience. You can also buy lotus flowers to lay inside the temple, which is a lovely touch for visitors.
Royal Botanical Gardens
Just outside the city, these gardens are a welcome break from the bustle. With over 4,000 plant species ranging from towering bamboo and giant fig trees to orchids, it’s an easy place to spend a few hours unwinding from the busy city. During your time here, keep an eye out for monkeys along the paths, but resist the urge to feed them (however tempting it may be)!
Traditional Kandyan Dance Show
Every evening, local performers put on a cultural show of music, drumming, and dance, finishing with an impressive fire-walking finale. Each dance gives a unique insight into Sri Lanka’s cultural background. Yes, it’s designed with visitors in mind, but it still feels rooted in tradition and is well worth seeing.
Cultural Etiquette
Sri Lanka is generally pretty relaxed, but you’ll want to dress modestly, especially when visiting temples. Shoulders and knees should be covered, and you’ll need to remove shoes and hats before going inside. A lightweight scarf or shawl in your bag is handy for impromptu temple stops. Modest dress is also appreciated in smaller towns and villages.
Why Kandy Feels So Special
What makes Sri Lanka shine isn’t just the scenery, but the people. In Kandy, you’ll be greeted with warmth and will experience excellent hospitality – whether it’s someone pointing you in the right direction or recommending a local restaurant. It’s a city that feels easy to navigate, safe, and welcoming. If you’re new to Asia, it’s a great introduction: adventurous enough to feel exciting, without being overwhelming.
Whilst Sri Lanka’s beaches deserve all the attention they get, Kandy is where you’ll get under the skin of the island. With its mix of culture, spirituality, and nature, it’s the perfect counterbalance to the coast. And if you do fall for the highlands, which is pretty much guaranteed, don’t just stop at Kandy. There’s so much more waiting in Sri Lanka’s central region.